We have been waking quite early on the island, why I don’t know. But it does mean we catch the morning light, which is so cool and white. Up here in Imerovigli, the white villas reflect the tea-weak light and the huge caldera seems to absorb it.

This morning, before breakfast, we wound our way to a little church. It sits, loftily, high above everything else with a Greek flag flapping and wrapping itself around the flagpole with each smack of wind.

The light was cool, the sun gently nudging the island awake.